To choose the right foundation shade, you need to match two things: how light or dark your skin is, and its undertone. Get both right and foundation disappears into your skin. Get one wrong and you see a mask-like line at the jaw or a face that looks gray, orange or pink.
Step 1: Know your depth
Depth is where your skin sits between very fair and very deep. Brands usually group shades as fair, light, medium, tan, deep and rich. Look at your jaw and neck, not your cheeks, which are often redder, or your forehead, which is often darker.
Step 2: Know your undertone
Undertone is the hue beneath the surface.
- Warm: golden, yellow or peachy.
- Cool: pink, red or bluish.
- Neutral: a balance of both.
- Olive: a green-gray cast, often with a neutral or warm base.
Many brands mark shades with W, C or N. Skin Undertones: Warm, Cool, Neutral, and Olive explains how to find yours.
Step 3: Pick three candidates
Choose the shade you think matches, plus one slightly lighter and one slightly deeper, all in your undertone.
Step 4: Swatch in the right place
- Apply three short stripes side by side along your jawline, reaching down onto the neck.
- Blend the edges lightly.
- Step into daylight, or stand by a window. Shop lighting distorts color.
- The stripe that seems to vanish is your shade.
The wrist and the back of the hand are poor guides, because they are often a different color from the face.
Step 5: Wait before you decide
Some foundations darken or turn more orange as they dry and react with air and the oils on your skin. This is often called oxidation. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and look again before buying. If you can, wear the sample for a few hours.
Step 6: Check against your neck and chest
Your face should match your neck and chest, so that everything looks continuous in open necklines. If your face is lighter than your body, as it often is with daily sunscreen, match the neck and blend down.
Matching online
| Method | How to use it |
|---|---|
| Brand shade finders | Answer the questions honestly; treat the result as a starting point |
| Cross-brand match tools | Enter a foundation that already suits you to find its equivalent |
| Photos of swatches on real skin | Look for people with skin like yours, in daylight |
| Samples and minis | The lowest-risk way to test |
| Return policy | Check it before you order |
The Foundation Shade Finder helps you to narrow down depth and undertone before you shop.
When your shade changes
Skin is usually a little deeper in summer and lighter in winter. Many people keep two shades and mix them in between. Self-tanner, new skincare and sun exposure all shift your match.
Signs you have the wrong shade
- Too light: the face looks pale or ashy next to the neck.
- Too dark: a visible line at the jaw.
- Wrong undertone: the face looks pink, orange, yellow or gray even though the depth is right.
- Ashy on deep skin: the shade lacks warmth or richness. Look for red or golden undertones.
Fixing a near miss
- Mix in a lighter or deeper shade.
- Use shade-adjusting drops, which are white, dark, yellow or red mixers.
- Warm up a foundation that is slightly too light with bronzer.
- Wear a sheerer layer. Light coverage is more forgiving. See Foundation Coverage and Finish: A Beginner's Guide.
If your foundation matches but still looks heavy, the problem is usually application. See Cakey Foundation: Common Causes and Application Tips. For choosing between liquid and powder formulas, see Liquid vs Powder Foundation: Coverage and Finish.
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Frequently asked questions
Should foundation be lighter or darker than my skin?
Neither. It should match your jaw and neck. If you must choose between two close shades, the slightly deeper one usually blends better than the lighter one.
Why does my foundation look orange after an hour?
It may be oxidizing on your skin, or its undertone may be too warm for you. Try a shade that is slightly lighter or more neutral, and use a primer or powder to slow the change.
Where should I test foundation?
Along the jawline and down onto the neck, in natural daylight.