Hair removal cream, also called depilatory cream, removes hair without a blade and without pulling. It is painless when used correctly, and it leaves a smoother finish than shaving, with no sharp stubble. It is also a strong chemical product. Nearly all problems come from skipping the patch test, or from leaving the cream on for too long.
How it works
Depilatory creams contain alkaline chemicals, usually salts of thioglycolic acid, that break down keratin, the protein that hair is made of. After a few minutes, the hair becomes soft enough to wipe away at the surface of the skin.
Skin also contains keratin. This is why timing matters: left on too long, the cream irritates or burns the skin.
Pros and cons
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Painless | Strong smell |
| No cuts | Can cause irritation, allergy or chemical burns |
| Regrowth feels softer than after shaving | Results last only a few days to a week |
| Good for large areas, such as legs | Not for broken, sunburnt or sensitive skin |
| Inexpensive | Messy; needs timing |
Choose the right product
- Use a product made for the area you are treating. Formulas for the face, underarms and bikini line are milder than those for legs.
- Choose a "sensitive skin" formula if your skin reacts easily.
- Never use body formulas on the face, and never use any depilatory on eyebrows, near the eyes, inside the nose or ears, or on the genitals.
- Check the expiry date.
The patch test
Do a patch test 24 hours before every use of a new product, and again if you have not used the product for a long time or the formula has changed.
- Apply a small amount to a small part of the area you plan to treat.
- Leave it for the time stated in the instructions.
- Remove it, and rinse.
- Wait 24 hours.
- If there is no redness, itching, burning or rash, you can proceed.
A brief, mild tingle can be normal. Burning is not. See How to Add New Products to Your Skincare Routine for patch testing skincare in general.
How to use it: step by step
- Read the instructions for your product. Times and methods differ.
- Start with clean, dry skin. Do not apply straight after a hot bath or shower, when skin is more sensitive, unless the product is designed for in-shower use.
- Apply a thick, even layer with the spatula, covering the hair completely. Do not rub it in.
- Wash your hands, if you used them.
- Start a timer. Typical times are 3 to 10 minutes. Never exceed the maximum on the pack.
- Test a small area at the minimum time by wiping gently. If the hair comes away, remove the rest.
- Wipe off the cream and hair with the spatula or a damp cloth, using gentle strokes.
- Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Do not use soap.
- Pat dry.
If you feel burning at any point, remove the cream at once and rinse with plenty of cool water.
Aftercare
- Apply a fragrance-free moisturizer.
- Wait at least 24 hours before using deodorant, perfume, self-tanner or exfoliating products on the area. Check your product's leaflet.
- Avoid sunbathing and swimming for 24 hours.
- Wear loose clothing.
- Wait at least 72 hours before using a depilatory again on the same area.
When not to use hair removal cream
- On broken, irritated, sunburnt or freshly shaved skin.
- Over moles, scars, spots or varicose veins.
- If you have had a reaction to a depilatory before.
- If you use retinoids or exfoliating acids on the area, pause them for a few days before and after. See How to Fit Hair Removal into Your Skincare Routine.
- If you take medicines that affect the skin, check with a pharmacist or doctor.
What a reaction looks like
| Reaction | What to do |
|---|---|
| Mild redness or tingling that fades within an hour | Rinse; apply a cool compress and fragrance-free moisturizer |
| Burning, strong redness, swelling or a rash | Rinse with cool water for several minutes; do not reapply; see a pharmacist or doctor |
| Blisters, raw or weeping skin | Treat as a chemical burn; rinse well and get medical advice |
| Itchy rash a day or two later | Possible allergy; stop using the product and see a doctor if it persists |
Tips for a better result
- Apply enough. A thin layer dries out and works unevenly.
- Coarse hair needs the full time. Fine hair needs less.
- Use a timer every time. Do not guess.
- Ventilate the bathroom.
- Keep the cream off towels, clothing and surfaces. It can bleach or mark fabric.
For underarm use, see Underarm Hair Removal: Methods and Aftercare. For preparation that applies to all methods, see How to Prepare Your Skin for Hair Removal, and for a comparison with other methods, Shaving vs Waxing vs Epilating: Key Differences.
Related on ArniSun
- Shaving vs Waxing vs Epilating: Key Differences
- How to Prepare Your Skin for Hair Removal
- Underarm Hair Removal: Methods and Aftercare
- How to Add New Products to Your Skincare Routine
- How to Fit Hair Removal into Your Skincare Routine
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
How long should I leave hair removal cream on?
For the time stated on your product, usually 3 to 10 minutes. Check a small area at the minimum time, and never go beyond the maximum.
Is hair removal cream safer than shaving?
It avoids cuts, but it can cause irritation or chemical burns if misused. A patch test and exact timing make it safe for most people.
Can I use hair removal cream on my face?
Only a product made specifically for the face, and never near the eyes. Body formulas are too strong for facial skin.