Knowing how to apply lip liner makes any lipstick look neater and last longer. Liner gives the lips a clean edge, stops color from bleeding into fine lines around the mouth and provides a base that lipstick can grip. It takes less than a minute once you know the order of the strokes.
What lip liner does
- Defines the shape of the lips.
- Prevents lipstick from feathering.
- Helps lipstick to last, especially when used to fill the whole lip.
- Lets you balance uneven lips or adjust their shape slightly.
Choosing a shade
| Goal | Shade to choose |
|---|---|
| Invisible definition | A liner that matches your lipstick |
| One liner for many lipsticks | A liner that matches your natural lip color |
| Works under any color | A clear or "universal" wax liner |
| More dimension | A liner one shade deeper than your lipstick, blended inward |
Avoid a liner much darker than your lipstick with a visible outline, unless that contrast is the look you want.
Before you start
Smooth, moisturized lips make lining easier. Apply balm, wait a few minutes and blot off the excess. See How to Prep Your Lips Before Applying Lipstick. Sharpen your pencil, then soften the point by drawing a line on the back of your hand. A needle-sharp tip scratches, and a blunt one smudges.
Step by step
- Mark the cupid's bow. Draw a small "X" in the center of the upper lip, following the two peaks.
- Mark the center of the lower lip with a short line along its fullest part.
- Mark the corners. With your mouth relaxed and slightly open, draw a short stroke at each corner, upper and lower.
- Connect the marks with short, feathery strokes, working from the center towards the corners. Follow your natural lip line.
- Check the shape with your mouth closed. Adjust the lower side to match the higher one.
- Fill in the lips with the side of the pencil, at least a little way in from the edge, or completely for the longest wear.
- Apply lipstick, starting in the center and working outward to the liner.
- Blot with a tissue and reapply if you want more intensity.
Adjusting the shape
Small changes look natural. Large ones look drawn on.
- For fuller-looking lips: line on the very outer edge of your natural lip line, most generously at the center of the upper and lower lips, and return to your natural line at the corners. Add a light shade or a dab of gloss in the center.
- For lips that look smaller: line just inside the natural edge and choose deeper, matte shades.
- For uneven lips: line the smaller side slightly outside the edge to match the other.
- For downturned corners: stop the lower line a little before the corner and lift the end of the upper line slightly.
To stop feathering
Fine lines around the mouth pull lipstick outward. Liner acts as a barrier.
- Line the lips and fill them in.
- For extra protection, trace a clear wax liner just outside the lip line.
- Avoid very creamy or glossy formulas, which travel more.
- Pat a little concealer around the edge of the lips and set it lightly with powder.
How to Reduce Lipstick Smudging and Transfer has more ways to keep lipstick in place.
Common mistakes
- Drawing one continuous line, which is harder to control than short strokes.
- Leaving a hard outline with nothing blended inward. When the lipstick wears off, a ring is left behind.
- Overlining the corners of the mouth.
- Using a pencil that is too dry and drags. Warm it on your hand first.
- Skipping the mirror check with your mouth closed.
Pencil types
- Wooden pencils need sharpening and give a precise tip.
- Twist-up pencils are convenient and stay the same thickness.
- Long-wear and waterproof liners set firmly. Work quickly and blend before they dry.
Looks that rely on liner
Liner is essential for precise colors such as red. See How to Apply Red Lipstick Neatly. It also creates the gradient in ombre lips, as shown in Ombre Lips: An Easy Step-by-Step Tutorial, and it helps a nude lipstick to look defined. See How to Choose Nude Lipstick for Your Skin Tone.
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Frequently asked questions
Does lip liner go on before or after lipstick?
Before, in most cases. It creates the outline and a base. You can also tidy the edge with liner afterwards if the lipstick has gone outside the line.
Should lip liner match my lipstick or my lips?
Either works. Matching the lipstick is safest for bold colors. A liner in your natural lip color suits everyday shades and many different lipsticks.
Is it okay to wear lip liner alone?
Yes. Fill in the whole lip and add balm on top for a soft, long-wearing matte color.