Humectants, emollients, and occlusives are the three kinds of moisturizer ingredients. Nearly every lotion, cream and balm is a mixture of them. When you can spot each group on an ingredient list, you can predict how a product will feel and whether it will suit your skin.
The three groups at a glance
| Group | What it does | Common examples |
|---|---|---|
| Humectants | Attract water into the outer layer of the skin | Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, lactic acid, propylene glycol, aloe |
| Emollients | Fill the gaps between skin cells and make skin feel smooth | Ceramides, squalane, shea butter, fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, plant oils |
| Occlusives | Form a film that slows water loss | Petrolatum, dimethicone, mineral oil, lanolin, beeswax |
Some ingredients belong to more than one group. Shea butter, for example, softens the skin and also slows water loss.
Humectants: the water magnets
Humectants draw water towards themselves, from the deeper layers of the skin and, in humid conditions, from the air. They make skin feel plumper and less tight.
- Best for: dehydrated skin of any type.
- Texture: light, watery, sometimes slightly sticky.
- Tip: apply to damp skin and follow with a product that seals the water in. How to Use Hyaluronic Acid in Your Skincare Routine shows how with hyaluronic acid.
Emollients: the smoothers
Emollients settle between the cells of the outer layer, a little like filling the cracks in a dry path. The skin feels softer and looks less flaky.
- Best for: rough, dry or flaky skin.
- Texture: from silky and light, such as squalane, to rich, such as shea butter.
- Tip: ceramides are emollients that match the skin's own fats. See Ceramides for Skin: Benefits and How to Use Them.
Occlusives: the seals
Occlusives sit on the surface and reduce the amount of water that evaporates. Petrolatum is among the most effective and is rarely irritating.
- Best for: very dry, cracked or chapped skin; lips, hands and heels.
- Texture: thick and greasy, or smooth and dry-feeling in the case of silicones.
- Tip: apply as the last step, over damp skin or a lighter moisturizer.
How they work together
Each group covers a weakness of the others.
- A humectant brings water in.
- An emollient smooths the surface.
- An occlusive keeps the water from leaving.
This is why a well-made cream usually contains all three, and why a humectant serum works better under a moisturizer.
What to look for by skin type
- Oily skin: mostly humectants with light emollients. Gels and thin lotions.
- Combination skin: humectants and light emollients everywhere, extra emollient on dry areas.
- Dry skin: a cream rich in emollients, plus an occlusive at night.
- Sensitive skin: simple, fragrance-free formulas. Petrolatum and glycerin are usually well tolerated.
- Very dry hands, feet and elbows: urea or lactic acid with an occlusive on top.
Reading an ingredient list
Ingredients are listed from the highest amount to the lowest, down to about one percent. Look at the first five to ten names.
- Water and glycerin near the top: a hydrating, lighter product.
- Petrolatum, mineral oil or shea butter near the top: a rich, sealing product.
- Dimethicone high up: a smooth, non-greasy feel.
Common questions about safety
Occlusives such as petrolatum and mineral oil used in cosmetics are highly refined. They are widely recommended by dermatologists for dry skin. People who break out easily may prefer lighter textures on the face. Lanolin is a good emollient, but a small number of people are allergic to it.
Putting it into practice
For the face, see Choosing a Moisturizer: A Guide for Every Skin Type. For the body, the same three groups explain the difference between lotions, creams and butters in Body Lotion vs Cream vs Butter: Key Differences. If you are wondering where face oils fit, read Face Oil vs Moisturizer: Do You Need Both?.
Related on ArniSun
- Choosing a Moisturizer: A Guide for Every Skin Type
- How to Use Hyaluronic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
- Ceramides for Skin: Benefits and How to Use Them
- Face Oil vs Moisturizer: Do You Need Both?
- Body Lotion vs Cream vs Butter: Key Differences
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
Do I need separate products for each group?
No. Most moisturizers already combine all three. Separate products are useful only when you want to adjust the balance, for example by adding a humectant serum.
Is petrolatum bad for the skin?
No. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum is purified and is one of the most effective and least irritating moisturizing ingredients. It can feel heavy on oily skin.
Can an occlusive be used alone?
It can, but it works best over damp skin or a moisturizer, because it holds in the water that is already there and adds none of its own.