Smoky eye makeup is a look where the color is deepest along the lashes and fades softly outwards, with no hard edges. It has a reputation for being an expert look, but it is actually forgiving: because everything is blended and smudged, small mistakes disappear. You can do it with one pencil and two eyeshadows.
What you need
- A soft pencil liner in black, brown or charcoal. See Pencil vs Gel vs Liquid Eyeliner: Key Differences.
- A dark eyeshadow that matches the pencil.
- A medium, neutral shade for blending the edges.
- A light shade for the inner corner and brow bone.
- A flat brush, a fluffy blending brush and a small smudging brush or cotton swab.
- Mascara.
Black and gray are the classic choice. Brown, bronze and plum are softer and easier to wear in the day. How to Choose Eyeshadow for Your Eye Color helps you choose a color for your eyes.
Before you start
Do your eyes before your foundation. Dark eyeshadow often falls onto the cheeks, and it is easier to wipe it from bare skin. Apply an eyeshadow primer, or a little concealer set with powder.
Step by step
1. Put down the transition shade
With the fluffy brush, blend the medium shade through the crease and slightly above it. This gives the dark color something to fade into.
2. Draw and smudge the pencil
Draw the pencil along the upper lash line. It does not need to be neat. Smudge it upwards onto the lid with the small brush or a cotton swab, working quickly before it sets.
3. Press on the dark shade
With the flat brush, press the dark eyeshadow over the smudged pencil and the lower two thirds of the lid. Pressing, not sweeping, keeps powder from falling.
4. Blend the edge
With the fluffy brush and no extra product, blend the top edge of the dark shade into the transition shade, using small circular or back-and-forth strokes. Add a little more of the medium shade if you need to soften it further. The color should fade gradually, with no visible line.
5. Define the lower lash line
Run the pencil along the outer half of the lower lash line and smudge it. Press a little of the dark shadow over it and join it to the outer corner of the upper lid.
6. Brighten
Dab the light shade on the inner corner of the eye and under the arch of the brow.
7. Finish
Curl your lashes, apply two coats of mascara, and tidy any fallen powder with a cotton swab or a little micellar water. Then apply your base.
Three levels of intensity
| Level | How to do it |
|---|---|
| Soft, for daytime | Brown pencil, smudged close to the lashes, with a taupe shadow |
| Classic | Charcoal or black on the lid, blended to the crease |
| Dramatic | Deeper color taken higher, liner on the inner rim, false lashes |
Tips for a clean result
- Build slowly. Add dark shadow in thin layers.
- Keep one brush clean for blending only.
- Mind the shape. Keep the darkest color close to the lashes and let it lift slightly at the outer corner.
- Balance the face. With strong eyes, a softer lip and blush usually look best.
- Check from a distance. Step back from the mirror to judge the overall effect.
Adjusting for your eye shape
- Hooded eyes: keep the dark shade low and take the transition shade above the fold, with your eyes open.
- Small eyes: use a brown or bronze instead of black, and keep the inner corner light.
- Wide-set eyes: take the dark color further towards the inner corner.
- Close-set eyes: concentrate depth on the outer third.
Common mistakes
- Skipping the transition shade, which leaves a hard edge.
- Applying too much black at once.
- Forgetting the lower lash line, so the top looks heavy.
- Blending so high that color reaches the brows.
Making it last
Use a primer, choose long-wearing pencils and set cream products with powder. For turning a daytime look into this in a few minutes, see Day-to-Night Makeup: How to Refresh Your Look.
At the end of the night, remove it gently and completely. See How to Remove Eye Makeup Gently. If you are new to eyeshadow, practice the basics in Eye Makeup for Beginners: Easy Steps to Follow first.
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Frequently asked questions
What colors do I need for a smoky eye?
Three: a dark shade, a medium shade to blend the edge, and a light shade for the inner corner. A matching dark pencil makes it easier.
Can I do a smoky eye without black?
Yes. Brown, bronze, plum, navy and deep green all make softer smoky eyes that suit daytime.
Why does my smoky eye look messy?
Usually the edges are not blended enough, or the dark shade has traveled too high. Clean up underneath with a cotton swab and blend the top edge with a clean brush.