A coily hair routine puts moisture first. Coily hair, often called type 4, grows in tight coils or zigzags. It is the most delicate of all hair types: every sharp bend is a point where a strand can snap, and scalp oil hardly travels along it at all. Gentle handling and regular moisture keep it strong.
How coily hair behaves
- It is dry by nature and needs moisture added from outside.
- It shrinks a great deal. Hair can look a quarter of its real length when dry. Shrinkage is a sign of healthy elasticity.
- It is fragile. Rough combing, heat and tight styles cause breakage.
- It is versatile. It holds twists, braids and stretched styles well.
Wash day
Many people with coily hair wash once a week or every other week. Wash more often if your scalp is oily, flaky or you exercise heavily.
- Section the hair into four to eight parts and work on one at a time.
- Pre-treat (optional). Apply a little oil or conditioner to dry hair before washing to reduce tangling.
- Shampoo the scalp with a gentle, moisturizing shampoo. Let the lather run down the lengths.
- Condition generously. Apply to each section.
- Detangle with your fingers first, then a wide-tooth comb, from the ends up to the roots, while the conditioner is in. See How to Detangle Hair Gently.
- Deep condition for the time stated on the product. Do this weekly or every two weeks.
- Rinse with lukewarm water.
- Blot with a cotton T-shirt or microfibre towel.
Seal in moisture: the LOC and LCO methods
Layering products helps water stay in the hair.
| Method | Order | Often suits |
|---|---|---|
| LOC | Liquid or leave-in, then Oil, then Cream | Hair that loses moisture quickly |
| LCO | Liquid or leave-in, then Cream, then Oil | Hair that feels weighed down by oil first |
The "liquid" is water or a water-based leave-in conditioner. Oil and cream slow down evaporation. Try both orders and keep the one that leaves your hair soft for longer. Hair Porosity: What It Is and Why It Matters explains why porosity makes a difference.
Styling with low tension
- Twist-outs and braid-outs stretch the hair and define its pattern.
- Wash-and-go styles use gel on soaking wet hair to define coils.
- Protective styles such as braids, twists and buns tuck the ends away.
Whatever the style, it should not hurt. Pain, bumps along the hairline or a tight, pulling feeling mean that the style is too tight and may lead to hair loss over time. Tight Hairstyles and Hair Loss: Understanding Traction Alopecia explains the risk, and Scalp Care for Braids and Hair Extensions covers scalp care under braids and extensions.
Between wash days
- Mist with water or a leave-in spray when hair feels dry, then seal the ends with a little cream or oil.
- Refresh the style without combing through.
- Massage the scalp gently with your fingertips, not your nails.
Night care
Cotton pillowcases draw moisture out and cause friction. Sleep in a satin or silk bonnet or scarf, or on a satin pillowcase. Loose twists or a loose bun keep hair from matting overnight.
Heat and chemical treatments
- Keep hot tools for occasional use, at the lowest temperature that works, and always with a heat protectant.
- If you use relaxers, have them applied by a professional and only to new growth.
- Leave time between chemical services.
Trims
Trim when the ends feel rough, tangle more than usual or split. Healthy ends tangle less and help you to keep length.
Common mistakes
- Detangling dry hair.
- Putting oil on dry hair without water or a leave-in underneath. Oil seals moisture in; it does not add it.
- Leaving protective styles in for too long.
- Skipping scalp cleansing to "protect" a style.
If your pattern is looser, see Curly Hair Routine: A Step-by-Step Guide.
Related on ArniSun
- Curly Hair Routine: A Step-by-Step Guide
- How to Detangle Hair Gently
- Scalp Care for Braids and Hair Extensions
- Tight Hairstyles and Hair Loss: Understanding Traction Alopecia
- Hair Porosity: What It Is and Why It Matters
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
How often should coily hair be moisturized?
Whenever it feels dry, which for many people is every two to three days between washes. Apply a water-based leave-in and seal the ends.
Is shrinkage a sign of damage?
No. Shrinkage shows that your hair is elastic and holding moisture. Stretching styles such as twists reduce it if you prefer more visible length.
Does coily hair grow more slowly?
No. It grows at a similar rate to other hair. It often seems slower because of shrinkage and because fragile ends break if they are not protected.