Good scalp care for braids, weaves and extensions is what makes a protective style truly protective. These styles rest your own hair from daily handling, but the scalp underneath still produces oil, sweat and skin cells, and the added hair puts weight and tension on the roots. A simple routine keeps the scalp clean and catches problems early.
Before the style goes in
- Start with clean, conditioned, well-detangled hair and a healthy scalp.
- Treat dandruff or irritation first. A style will not hide a scalp problem; it will make it harder to treat. See Dandruff vs Dry Scalp: How to Tell the Difference.
- Tell your stylist if braids feel tight while they are being done. Pain is not a normal part of braiding.
Cleansing the scalp
Aim to cleanse about every one to two weeks, or more often if you exercise heavily.
- Dilute shampoo with water in a bottle with a nozzle tip.
- Apply it along the parts, directly on the scalp.
- Massage gently with the pads of your fingers. Do not rub the braids together.
- Rinse thoroughly, letting the water run down the length of the braids.
- Squeeze the braids in a towel to remove water.
- Dry completely. Sit under a hooded dryer or use a blow-dryer on low. Damp braids and sewn-in tracks can develop an unpleasant smell and irritate the scalp.
Between washes, a cloth dampened with diluted shampoo or a scalp cleanser can be wiped along the parts.
Moisturizing
- Mist the scalp and your own hair lightly with water or a leave-in spray a few times a week.
- Apply a small amount of light oil to dry areas of the scalp.
- Avoid thick greases on the scalp. They trap dirt and cause build-up. See Scalp Buildup: Causes and Cleansing Tips.
Easing itch
Itching in the first days often comes from tension or from the coating on some synthetic hair. Later on, it is usually dryness, sweat or build-up.
- Cleanse the scalp as described above.
- Pat the area or press with a fingertip. Do not scratch with nails or pins.
- Use a soothing, alcohol-free scalp spray.
- If itching is severe, or you see redness, bumps or flaking, take the style out and see Itchy Scalp: Common Causes and Care Options.
Watch for signs of too much tension
| Warning sign | What it means |
|---|---|
| Pain or headache after styling | The style is too tight |
| Small bumps or pimples along the hairline or parts | Hair follicles are inflamed |
| Scalp looks stretched or shiny | Skin is under strain |
| Broken hairs around the edges | Hair is being pulled out |
| A hairline that is moving back | Early traction hair loss |
If you notice any of these, loosen or remove the style. Hair loss from tension can become permanent if the pulling continues. Tight Hairstyles and Hair Loss: Understanding Traction Alopecia explains traction alopecia in detail.
How long to keep a style in
Dermatology sources commonly advise keeping braids and sewn-in styles for no longer than about two to three months, and less if your scalp is uncomfortable. Leaving a style in too long causes matting at the roots, heavy build-up and extra tension as new hair grows. Give your hair a rest of at least a couple of weeks between installations, and vary the style so that tension does not fall on the same places each time.
Looking after your edges
- Ask for slightly larger braids around the hairline, where hair is finest.
- Do not pull braids into tight high ponytails or buns every day.
- Sleep in a satin bonnet or scarf.
- Go easy on edge-control gels, and wash them out regularly.
Taking the style out
- Be patient and allow plenty of time.
- Cut extensions well below your own hair.
- Unbraid from the ends upwards.
- Before wetting, gently work out the lint and shed hair gathered at the base of each braid with your fingers and a little conditioner or oil.
- Then shampoo, deep condition and detangle in sections.
Expect to see a lot of shed hair. You lose 50 to 100 hairs a day, and they were held in the braids. For a full routine afterwards, see Coily Hair Routine: Moisture, Detangling, and Styling.
Related on ArniSun
- Tight Hairstyles and Hair Loss: Understanding Traction Alopecia
- Coily Hair Routine: Moisture, Detangling, and Styling
- Itchy Scalp: Common Causes and Care Options
- Scalp Buildup: Causes and Cleansing Tips
- Dandruff vs Dry Scalp: How to Tell the Difference
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
Can I wash my hair with braids in?
Yes, and you should. Cleanse the scalp every one to two weeks with diluted shampoo, rinse well and dry the braids fully.
Why do my braids itch so much in the first week?
Tightness, a dry scalp or sensitivity to synthetic hair are common reasons. If itching comes with pain or bumps, the style is probably too tight and should be loosened or removed.
Do braids make hair grow faster?
No. Hair grows at the same rate. Braids can help you keep length by reducing daily breakage, as long as they are not tight and the scalp is cared for.