Knowing how to apply highlighter with a light hand is what separates a healthy glow from a stripe of glitter. Highlighter reflects light, so it draws attention to the places you put it and makes them look lifted. For a natural result, less product and careful placement do all the work.
What highlighter does
It adds shine to the high points of the face, the areas that naturally catch the light. It is the opposite of contour, which creates shadow. Used together, they add dimension. See Bronzer vs Contour: Differences and How to Apply Them.
Where to place it
| Area | Effect |
|---|---|
| Top of the cheekbones | Lifts the cheeks; the classic placement |
| Brow bone, under the arch | Opens the eye area |
| Inner corners of the eyes | Makes eyes look brighter and more awake |
| Bridge of the nose | Makes the nose look straighter; avoid the tip if your skin is oily |
| Cupid's bow | Makes the upper lip look fuller |
| Center of the chin, lightly | Balances the face |
You do not need all of these. For daytime, the cheekbones and inner corners are enough.
Where to avoid
Highlighter draws attention to texture. Keep it away from active blemishes, enlarged pores, dry patches and fine lines, and from areas that become shiny by themselves.
Choosing a formula
- Powder: the easiest to control. Suits oily and combination skin. Apply with a small fluffy or fan brush.
- Cream or stick: a dewy, skin-like finish. Suits dry and normal skin. Tap on with fingers.
- Liquid: the most versatile. It can be dabbed on, or mixed into foundation or moisturizer for an all-over glow.
Finely milled products give a smooth sheen. Chunky glitter looks obvious and emphasizes texture.
Choosing a shade
| Skin tone | Shades that usually flatter |
|---|---|
| Fair | Pearl, soft champagne, pale pink |
| Light to medium | Champagne, peach, soft gold |
| Tan and olive | Gold, honey, rose gold |
| Deep | Bronze, copper, deep gold, rich rose gold |
A highlighter that is much lighter than your skin leaves an ashy or white stripe. Your undertone guides the rest: warm undertones suit gold, cool undertones suit pearl and pink. See Skin Undertones: Warm, Cool, Neutral, and Olive.
Step by step: powder highlighter
- Finish your base, bronzer and blush.
- Pick up a small amount on the brush and tap off the excess.
- Sweep along the top of the cheekbone, starting in line with the outer corner of the eye and moving up towards the temple in a soft "C".
- Use what is left on the brush for the brow bone and the bridge of the nose.
- Dab a tiny amount on the inner corners and the cupid's bow with a fingertip.
- Blend the edges with a clean brush so that there is no line.
Step by step: cream or liquid highlighter
- Apply after foundation and before powder.
- Dot a small amount on the back of your hand.
- Tap it onto the high points with your ring finger or a damp sponge.
- Blend by tapping. Do not rub, or you will lift the foundation.
- If you set your face with powder, avoid the highlighted areas, or add a little powder highlighter on top.
Three levels of glow
- Barely there: mix a drop of liquid highlighter into your foundation or moisturizer.
- Natural: cream or powder on the cheekbones only.
- Evening: layer powder over cream on the cheekbones, brow bone and inner corners.
Common mistakes
- Applying too much. Start with less than you think you need.
- Placing it too low on the cheeks, which looks greasy.
- Using a shade that is too light.
- Using glittery formulas on textured skin.
- Highlighting an oily T-zone.
Check your face in daylight before you leave. What looks subtle in the bathroom can look strong outside.
Without a highlighter
A touch of clear balm or a dewy moisturizer tapped on the cheekbones gives a soft sheen without shimmer.
For blush, see Cream vs Powder Blush: Which Formula Fits Your Look?. For a quick everyday look that includes a subtle glow, see Everyday Makeup: A Simple Look for Work or College. If your base looks heavy after adding several products, read Cakey Foundation: Common Causes and Application Tips.
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Frequently asked questions
Does highlighter go on before or after blush?
After. Apply bronzer, then blush, then highlighter, so that the glow sits on top.
Can I wear highlighter if I have oily skin?
Yes. Choose a powder formula, keep it on the cheekbones and avoid the forehead and nose, where natural shine appears.
What can I use instead of highlighter?
A shimmery eyeshadow in a suitable shade, a little clear balm, or a drop of facial oil tapped on the cheekbones can all give a similar effect.