Choosing lipstick for your skin undertone takes the guesswork out of buying a new shade. Two reds can look almost the same in the tube and completely different on your face, because one leans orange and the other leans blue. When the lean of the lipstick agrees with the undertone of your skin, the color looks as if it belongs.
First, find your undertone
Your undertone is the hue beneath your skin: warm (golden or peachy), cool (pink or bluish), neutral (a mixture), or olive (a green-gray cast). Compare gold and silver jewelry against your skin and look at the veins on your wrist in daylight. Skin Undertones: Warm, Cool, Neutral, and Olive explains the tests.
Then find the undertone of the lipstick
Every lip color leans warm or cool.
- Warm lipsticks contain yellow or orange: coral, peach, brick, terracotta, orange-red, warm brown.
- Cool lipsticks contain blue or purple: berry, plum, mauve, fuchsia, blue-red, rosy pink.
- Neutral lipsticks sit between the two: balanced reds, rosy nudes, soft browns.
Swipe two shades side by side on the inside of your wrist. Next to each other, the warm one looks more orange and the cool one more pink or purple.
Shade guide
| Undertone | Reds | Pinks | Others that flatter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm | Orange-red, brick, tomato | Coral, salmon, warm peach-pink | Terracotta, caramel, copper brown |
| Cool | Blue-red, cherry, raspberry | Rose, fuchsia, mauve | Berry, plum, wine |
| Neutral | True red | Dusty rose, soft pink | Most shades, especially balanced ones |
| Olive | Brick, deep warm red | Mauve-brown, muted rose | Terracotta, muted berry, warm plum |
Depth matters too
Your undertone tells you which family to choose. How light or deep your skin is tells you how intense to go.
- Fair skin: lighter and medium versions, such as soft coral, rose and light berry. Very dark shades give strong contrast, which can be striking if that is the effect you want.
- Medium skin: medium to deep versions, such as true red, mauve and terracotta.
- Deep skin: rich, saturated shades, such as deep berry, wine, brick and bright orange-red. Very pale shades can look chalky unless they are lined with a deeper color.
A shortcut: your natural lip color
A lipstick one or two shades deeper than your own lips, in the same color family, is nearly always flattering. This is the "my lips but better" shade, and it is the safest first purchase.
Do the shades change your look?
Lip color affects the rest of the face.
- Blue-based reds and berries make teeth look whiter.
- Orange-leaning shades can make teeth look more yellow.
- Very pale shades can wash out the face if they are lighter than your skin.
Testing a shade
- Try it on bare lips, in daylight if possible.
- Hold the lipstick or a swatch near your face, not only on your hand.
- Look at your whole face in the mirror. The right shade makes your skin look brighter and your eyes clearer.
- If testers are shared, use a disposable applicator or swatch on your fingertip instead of your mouth.
The Lipstick Shade Finder suggests shade families from your undertone and the occasion.
Making a "wrong" shade work
- Apply it as a stain, blotted down, for a softer effect.
- Layer a little balm or gloss over it.
- Mix it with a shade from your own family.
- Use a liner in your own undertone underneath to shift the color.
Finish changes the effect
The same color looks deeper in matte and softer in a sheer or glossy formula. If a shade feels too strong, try it in a sheerer finish. Lipstick Finishes: Matte, Satin, Glossy, and Sheer explains finishes.
Remember: guides, not rules
These suggestions describe what tends to harmonize. Confidence matters more than color theory, and there is no shade you are not "allowed" to wear. For help with two classic choices, see How to Apply Red Lipstick Neatly for reds and How to Choose Nude Lipstick for Your Skin Tone for nudes.
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Frequently asked questions
How do I know if a lipstick is warm or cool?
Compare it with another shade. Warm lipsticks look more orange, peach or brown; cool ones look more pink, purple or blue-red.
What lipstick color suits every undertone?
A balanced, neutral red and a rosy shade close to your natural lip color suit almost everyone.
Why does the same lipstick look different on me than on my friend?
Skin undertone, skin depth and the natural color of your lips all change how a shade appears.