A mascara buying guide is really a guide to two things: the brush and the formula. The brush decides how much product is laid down, and how the lashes are separated. The formula decides how the lashes look and how the mascara wears. Matching both to your own lashes matters more than the name on the tube.
What this guide is based on
We describe brush shapes and formula types by how they are designed to work, and by what their labels claim. Results depend on your own lashes, and ArniSun has not tested individual mascaras. For application technique, see How to Apply Mascara Without Clumps.
Brush shapes
| Brush | Shape | Effect | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thick, dense bristle | Large, full | Volume | Sparse or fine lashes |
| Thin, straight | Slim | Length, definition, reaches the roots | Short lashes; lower lashes |
| Curved | Crescent | Lift and curl | Straight lashes |
| Tapered or cone | Narrow tip, wider base | Precision at the corners; fanned-out look | Most lash types |
| Comb or plastic molded | Short, firm spikes | Separation, no clumps | Lashes that stick together |
| Hourglass | Narrow in the middle | Volume and curl together | Medium to long lashes |
| Ball tip or micro brush | Tiny | Reaches every lash | Very short lashes; inner corners; lower lashes |
Bristle type matters too. Fiber bristles hold more product, for volume. Molded plastic, or silicone, bristles deposit less and separate better.
Formulas by effect
- Lengthening: thinner formulas, sometimes with tiny fibers, that extend the tips.
- Volumizing: thicker, waxier formulas that coat each lash heavily.
- Curling: lightweight formulas that set quickly and hold a curl.
- Defining: light formulas for a natural, separated look.
Formulas by wear
| Type | How it behaves | Removal | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washable (regular) | Comfortable; may smudge with oil or tears | Cleanser or micellar water | Everyday wear |
| Waterproof | Resists water, sweat and tears; holds curl well | Oil-based remover | Humid weather; swimming; watery eyes; special occasions |
| Water-resistant | A middle ground | Micellar water or cleanser | Most days |
| Tubing | Forms tiny "tubes" around each lash; does not smudge | Slides off with warm water and gentle pressure | Oily lids; smudging under the eyes |
| Clear | Sets and separates, no color | Cleanser | Natural looks; brows |
Waterproof mascara is harder to remove and can be drying, so it is best not used every day. See How to Remove Eye Makeup Gently.
Choosing for your lashes
| Lashes | Brush | Formula |
|---|---|---|
| Short | Thin or micro brush | Lengthening |
| Sparse or fine | Dense bristle brush | Volumizing |
| Straight | Curved brush | Curling; waterproof holds curl best |
| Long, but thin | Hourglass or dense brush | Volumizing |
| Thick and curly | Comb or molded brush | Defining |
| Clumping easily | Comb brush | Thinner formula |
| Lower lashes | Small brush | Washable or tubing |
Choosing for your eyes
- Sensitive eyes or contact lenses: fragrance-free formulas, labeled as ophthalmologist tested or suitable for sensitive eyes. Avoid fibers, which can flake into the eyes.
- Hooded lids or oily skin: tubing or waterproof formulas resist transfer.
- Watery eyes or allergies: tubing or waterproof.
Color
Black gives the most definition. Brown and brown-black are softer, for fair coloring and daytime. Navy, plum and burgundy add subtle color.
What to check on the label
| Claim | What it means |
|---|---|
| "Volume", "length", "curl" | The intended effect; results vary with your lashes |
| "Smudge-proof", "flake-proof" | Maker's claim; tubing formulas are the most reliable |
| "Ophthalmologist tested" | An eye doctor was involved in testing; not a guarantee |
| "Hypoallergenic" | Not strictly regulated |
| "Lash care", "conditioning" | Contains ingredients such as panthenol or oils; modest benefit |
| "Growth" claims | Be cautious; products that change lash growth may be regulated as medicines in some countries |
Value and shelf life
Mascara has the shortest life of any makeup. Replace it about three months after opening, or sooner if it smells odd, dries out or clumps. Because of this, there is little sense in paying a great deal for a tube that will be discarded in a season. Minis are good value, if you rotate several. See Makeup Hygiene: How to Store and Handle Products.
Before you buy
- Decide on the effect you want most: length, volume or curl.
- Look at the brush, if the packaging shows it.
- Read reviews from people with lashes like yours.
- Do not test shared mascara testers on your eyes.
Mascara is the last step of a simple eye look. See Eye Makeup for Beginners: Easy Steps to Follow. For more drama on special occasions, see How to Apply and Remove False Lashes.
Related on ArniSun
- How to Apply Mascara Without Clumps
- How to Remove Eye Makeup Gently
- Eye Makeup for Beginners: Easy Steps to Follow
- Makeup Hygiene: How to Store and Handle Products
- How to Apply and Remove False Lashes
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
What type of mascara is best for short lashes?
A lengthening formula with a thin or micro brush, which can reach the roots and coat each lash without smudging the lid.
Is tubing mascara better than waterproof?
Tubing mascara resists smudging and comes off easily with warm water. Waterproof mascara holds a curl better, and survives swimming. Choose by your need.
How often should I replace mascara?
About every three months after opening, or sooner if it changes in smell or texture, or after an eye infection.