Face Makeup

Color Correcting Makeup: What Each Color Does

How color correctors cancel redness, dark circles, dullness and sallowness, which shade to use for your skin tone and how to apply them.

Color correcting makeup looks strange in the pan. Green, lavender and orange creams hardly seem like something to put on your face. They work because of a simple idea from the color wheel: opposite colors cancel each other out. Used thinly under concealer, a corrector neutralizes a discoloration that concealer alone would turn gray.

The principle

On a color wheel, each color sits opposite its complement. When the two are mixed, they move towards a neutral tone.

  • Green is opposite red.
  • Orange and peach are opposite blue.
  • Yellow is opposite purple.
  • Purple is opposite yellow.

What each corrector does

CorrectorCancelsTypical uses
GreenRednessBlemishes, redness around the nose, flushed cheeks
Peach or salmonBlue and purpleDark circles on fair to medium skin
Orange or redDeep blue, brown and grayDark circles and dark marks on tan to deep skin
YellowPurple and mild rednessBruising, veins, purple-toned shadows, light redness
Lavender or purpleYellow, sallownessDull, yellow-toned skin
PinkDullness, blue-green shadowsBrightening fair skin

Choosing a corrector for your skin depth

The darker your skin, the deeper the corrector you need.

  • Fair to light: pale peach or pink for under the eyes; mint green for redness.
  • Medium: peach to salmon under the eyes; green or yellow for redness.
  • Tan to deep: orange to red-orange for dark circles and hyperpigmentation.

A pale peach on deep skin will look ashy, and a strong orange on fair skin will be hard to cover.

How to apply a corrector

  1. Finish your skincare and let it settle.
  2. Apply foundation first if you like, or go straight to corrector. Both orders work; correcting first is the most common.
  3. Use a very small amount of corrector only on the discolored area.
  4. Tap it in with a fingertip or small brush until it is a thin, even veil. You should still see a hint of the corrector color.
  5. Apply skin-toned concealer or foundation over the top by pressing, not rubbing, so that the corrector stays in place.
  6. Set lightly with powder.

If you can still see green or orange through your makeup, you used too much corrector.

Worked examples

  • Blue-purple under-eye circles on light skin: a thin layer of peach corrector at the inner corner, then a light concealer in your skin shade.
  • Brown under-eye darkness on deep skin: orange corrector, then a concealer that matches your skin.
  • A red blemish: a dot of green, a matching concealer tapped over it, and powder.
  • Overall dull, yellowish tone: a lavender-tinted primer over the whole face instead of a cream corrector.

Formats

  • Cream pots and palettes: the most pigment, for strong discoloration.
  • Liquid correctors: lighter and easier to blend under the eyes.
  • Color-correcting primers: a sheer wash for large areas.
  • Sticks: quick, but can drag on delicate skin.

When you do not need a corrector

If your concealer covers the area without turning gray, skip the extra step. Correctors add a layer, and fewer layers look more natural. Many people need one only for very dark circles or strong redness. For basic technique, see How to Apply Concealer for a Smooth Finish.

Common mistakes

  • Using too much, which creates a new color problem.
  • Using the wrong depth for your skin.
  • Rubbing concealer over it and mixing the two into a muddy shade.
  • Applying corrector over a large area when the discoloration is small.

A note on skin concerns

Makeup hides color but does not treat it. Dark marks after acne fade with time and sun protection. See Acne Scars vs Dark Spots: How to Tell the Difference. Lasting facial redness or sudden dark patches are worth showing to a dermatologist.

To understand your own coloring better, read Skin Undertones: Warm, Cool, Neutral, and Olive. For help with choosing a concealer to go on top, see Concealer Buying Guide: Coverage, Texture, and Shade, and for foundation matching, How to Choose the Right Foundation Shade.

Frequently asked questions

Do I put color corrector on before or after foundation?

Most people apply it before concealer and either before or after foundation. Try both and keep the order that looks smoothest on you.

What color corrector is best for dark circles?

Peach or salmon for fair to medium skin and orange to red-orange for tan to deep skin, because dark circles usually have blue, purple or brown tones.

Can I use lipstick as a color corrector?

An orange or red cream lipstick can work under concealer on deep skin in an emergency. Products made for the eye area are gentler and easier to blend.

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Written by

Sunil Dutt

Full Stake UI/UX Designer