Cuticle oil vs hand cream is not really a contest. They are two products with different textures, designed for different parts of the hand. Cuticle oil is a concentrated treatment for the nail and the skin around it. Hand cream is a moisturizer for the whole hand. Knowing what each does helps you to decide whether you need one or both.
What cuticle oil is
Cuticle oil is a blend of light oils, such as jojoba, sweet almond, apricot kernel or sunflower oil, often with vitamin E. It contains no water.
What it does:
- Softens the cuticle and the skin at the sides of the nail.
- Helps to prevent hangnails and ragged edges.
- Keeps the nail plate flexible, so that it bends instead of cracking.
- Adds a healthy sheen to bare or polished nails.
Because oil is thin, it spreads into the folds around the nail, where a thick cream tends to sit on the surface.
What hand cream is
Hand cream is an emulsion of water and oils, with three kinds of moisturizing ingredients:
- Humectants, such as glycerin and urea, which draw water into the skin.
- Emollients, such as shea butter and oils, which smooth it.
- Occlusives, such as petrolatum, dimethicone and waxes, which slow water loss.
What it does:
- Replaces moisture lost through washing, sanitizer and cold weather.
- Protects the skin barrier on the backs of the hands and the palms.
- Relieves tightness, roughness and cracking.
Moisturizer Ingredients: Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives explains these ingredient groups.
Side-by-side comparison
| Cuticle oil | Hand cream | |
|---|---|---|
| Contains water | No | Yes |
| Texture | Thin oil | Lotion to rich cream |
| Target | Cuticles, nail folds, nail plate | Skin of the whole hand |
| Adds water to the skin | No | Yes |
| Softens cuticles | Very well | Moderately |
| Relieves dry hands | Only slightly | Yes |
| Best time | After washing; at bedtime; after a manicure | After every wash; through the day |
Do you need both?
- Dry hands and normal cuticles: hand cream alone, rubbed into the nails as well, is enough.
- Dry, peeling cuticles or brittle nails: add cuticle oil.
- Frequent manicures, gel or acrylic nails: cuticle oil keeps the skin and enhancements flexible.
- Very dry, cracked hands: a thick cream or ointment matters most. See Hand Cream Ingredients: What to Look For.
If you want only one product, choose hand cream and massage it into the nails and cuticles each time.
How to use them together
- Wash and dry your hands.
- Apply a small drop of oil to the base of each nail.
- Massage it into the cuticle, the sides and the nail itself for a few seconds per finger.
- Follow with hand cream over the whole hand. The cream adds water and helps to hold the oil in place.
At bedtime, a thicker layer of each, with cotton gloves, makes an intensive treatment.
When to apply
| Moment | Use |
|---|---|
| After washing hands or using sanitizer | Hand cream |
| After washing dishes or cleaning | Hand cream, then oil on the cuticles |
| After a manicure, once polish is dry | Cuticle oil |
| Before bed | Both |
| Before painting nails | Neither. Oil and cream stop polish from sticking |
Choosing a cuticle oil
- Jojoba oil is light and is often the first ingredient in cuticle oils.
- Sweet almond, apricot and sunflower oils are light and inexpensive.
- Vitamin E is a common addition.
- A brush, pen or dropper applicator makes daily use easy.
- Choose fragrance-free if your skin is sensitive. Essential oils can irritate, and people with nut allergies should check the ingredient list.
A plain, light plant oil from the pharmacy does the same job as an expensive blend.
Choosing a hand cream
- For daytime, pick a cream that absorbs quickly.
- For night, or for cracked skin, pick a thicker cream or ointment.
- Ingredients such as glycerin, urea, shea butter and petrolatum are reliable.
- Fragrance-free formulas suit sensitive or eczema-prone hands.
Common mistakes
- Applying oil just before polish.
- Using oil alone on very dry hands.
- Applying products once a day only. Little and often works better.
- Forgetting to rub cream into the nails themselves.
For a complete cuticle routine, see Cuticle Care: How to Keep Your Routine Gentle. For daily hand care, see Daily Hand Care: Washing, Moisturizing, and Sun Protection, and for keeping a manicure fresh, How to Care for Nails Between Manicures.
Related on ArniSun
- Cuticle Care: How to Keep Your Routine Gentle
- Hand Cream Ingredients: What to Look For
- Daily Hand Care: Washing, Moisturizing, and Sun Protection
- How to Care for Nails Between Manicures
- Moisturizer Ingredients: Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
Can I use hand cream instead of cuticle oil?
Yes, if you massage it well into the cuticles and nails. Oil is more effective for very dry, peeling cuticles.
How often should I use cuticle oil?
Once or twice a day gives visible results within a week or two. Bedtime is a good time, because the oil can sit undisturbed.
Does cuticle oil help nails grow?
It does not speed up growth, but it keeps nails flexible and cuticles healthy, which reduces breakage and helps nails to reach a greater length.