Hand & Foot Care

Hand Cream Ingredients: What to Look For

The ingredients that make a hand cream work, how to match them to dry, cracked, aging or sensitive hands and what label claims mean.

Hand cream ingredients decide whether a product actually relieves dry hands or just smells pleasant for five minutes. Hand creams are formulated differently from body lotions. They are thicker, they resist washing a little better, and they are designed to absorb without leaving a greasy film on everything you touch. A quick look at the ingredient list tells you what a cream will do.

The three building blocks

GroupWhat it doesCommon examples in hand creams
HumectantsDraw water into the skinGlycerin, urea, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, panthenol
EmollientsSmooth and soften rough skinShea butter, cocoa butter, plant oils, ceramides, cetyl and stearyl alcohol
OcclusivesForm a protective film that slows water lossPetrolatum, dimethicone, mineral oil, lanolin, beeswax, paraffin

A good hand cream contains all three. Moisturizer Ingredients: Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives explains them in more depth.

Ingredients worth knowing

  • Glycerin. A dependable, gentle humectant. High on the list is a good sign.
  • Urea. At around 5% it moisturizes. At 10% and above it also softens thick, rough skin. It can sting on cracks.
  • Lactic acid. Moisturizes and smooths. It may sting on broken skin.
  • Petrolatum. One of the most effective ingredients for sealing in moisture and protecting cracked skin.
  • Dimethicone. A silicone that leaves a light, protective, non-greasy layer. It is common in "barrier" creams for people who wash often.
  • Shea butter. A rich emollient that softens without much grease.
  • Ceramides. Fats that match those in the skin barrier.
  • Lanolin. A very good emollient from wool. A small number of people are allergic to it.
  • Niacinamide and vitamin E. Common supporting ingredients.

Reading the list

Ingredients are listed from the largest amount to the smallest, down to about one percent.

  • Water and glycerin first: a lighter, hydrating cream for daytime.
  • Petrolatum, paraffin or shea butter near the top: a rich, protective cream for very dry hands and night use.
  • Dimethicone in the first few: a barrier-style cream that resists washing.
  • Fragrance or parfum: adds scent, and can irritate sore skin.

The Skincare Ingredient Checker explains unfamiliar names.

Match the cream to your hands

Your handsLook forTexture
Normal, occasional drynessGlycerin, light emollientsLight cream
Dry from frequent washingGlycerin, dimethicone, petrolatum; fragrance-freeMedium to rich cream
Cracked, sorePetrolatum-based ointment; avoid acids and fragranceOintment
Rough, thick skin on palms or knucklesUrea 10% or more, lactic acidRich cream
Sensitive or eczema-proneShort list; fragrance-free; ceramides, glycerin, petrolatumCream or ointment
Aging hands, with spots or thin skinDaytime SPF; glycerin; niacinamide or retinol at nightCream
Working hands that need gripDimethicone; quick-absorbingLight, non-greasy cream

See Dry Hands from Washing: How to Adjust Your Routine for hands that are washed many times a day.

Ingredients to be cautious about

  • Fragrance and essential oils, if your skin is irritated or sensitive.
  • Drying alcohols high on the list.
  • Exfoliating acids and urea at high strength on broken skin.
  • Lanolin, if you have a wool or lanolin allergy.
  • Certain preservatives, such as methylisothiazolinone, in people who are allergic to them.

Label claims

ClaimMeaning
"Intensive", "repair", "ultra"Usually richer; check for occlusives
"Non-greasy", "fast-absorbing"More water and silicone; lighter protection
"Barrier cream"Leaves a protective film, often dimethicone; not a substitute for gloves
"SPF 15/30"Contains sunscreen filters; reapply after washing. See Sunscreen for Hands: How to Add It to Your Routine
"Hypoallergenic", "dermatologist tested"Not strictly regulated; check the ingredients
"Anti-aging"A cosmetic claim; look for sunscreen in the daytime

Hand cream, cuticle oil and body lotion

  • Body lotion can be used on hands, but it is thinner and washes off sooner.
  • Hand cream is a good moisturizer for cuticles and nails too.
  • Cuticle oil adds flexibility to nails and softens the nail folds. See Cuticle Oil vs Hand Cream: What Each Does.

How to get the most from any hand cream

  1. Apply after every wash, to slightly damp skin.
  2. Use a pea-sized to small-coin amount.
  3. Massage it into the knuckles, fingertips and cuticles.
  4. Use a richer cream or ointment at night.

Price is not a guide to performance. A plain, inexpensive cream with glycerin and petrolatum often outperforms a costly, scented one. For a complete routine, see Daily Hand Care: Washing, Moisturizing, and Sun Protection.

Sources and further reading

Frequently asked questions

What is the best ingredient for very dry hands?

Petrolatum is among the most effective for sealing in moisture. Creams that combine it with glycerin and dimethicone work well for hands that are washed often.

Is urea good in a hand cream?

Yes. It hydrates and softens rough skin. It may sting on cracked skin, so use a plain ointment until cracks heal.

Should hand cream be fragrance-free?

It is the safer choice if your hands are dry, cracked or sensitive, because fragrance is a common irritant.

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Written by

Sunil Dutt

Full Stake UI/UX Designer