Scalp exfoliation means helping the scalp to shed dead skin cells and residue, either by gentle rubbing or with ingredients that loosen them. It has become a popular step in hair routines. For some people it is useful. For many it is unnecessary, and for a few it does more harm than good.
Does the scalp need exfoliating?
The scalp is skin, and it sheds cells without help. Regular shampooing removes most of them along with oil and product. Extra exfoliation may help if you have:
- Product build-up that normal washing does not shift.
- An oily scalp with a tendency to flake.
- Mild dandruff, as an addition to a dandruff shampoo.
There is little research on cosmetic scalp scrubs, so treat exfoliation as an optional extra, not as an essential.
Two kinds of exfoliation
| Physical | Chemical | |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Small particles or a brush lift flakes by rubbing | Acids loosen the bonds between dead cells |
| Examples | Sugar or salt scrubs, silicone scalp brushes | Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid treatments |
| Benefits | Instant "clean" feeling | Even coverage, no scrubbing |
| Risks | Scratches, irritation, hard to rinse from thick hair | Stinging, dryness if overused |
Salicylic acid is the most established ingredient for loosening scalp scale and is used in many dandruff and psoriasis shampoos.
Who should avoid it
- Anyone with a sore, broken or sunburnt scalp.
- People with scalp psoriasis, eczema or severe dandruff, unless a doctor advises it. Picking or scrubbing at plaques can make psoriasis worse.
- People with a sensitive scalp that stings easily. See Sensitive Scalp Care: Tips for a Gentle Routine.
- Anyone whose hair has just been colored, relaxed or permed. Wait at least a week or follow your stylist's advice.
- People who are allergic to aspirin should avoid salicylic acid products.
How to exfoliate with a scrub
- Wet your hair thoroughly.
- Part the hair in sections so that you can reach the scalp.
- Apply a small amount of scrub directly to the scalp.
- Massage with the pads of your fingers using light, circular movements for one to two minutes. Do not use your nails.
- Rinse for a long time. Grains hide in thick or curly hair.
- Shampoo and condition as usual.
How to use a chemical exfoliant
- Read the directions. Some products go on a dry scalp before washing, others on a wet scalp.
- Apply along parts with the nozzle.
- Leave it for the stated time. Do not exceed it.
- Rinse, then shampoo and condition.
- Stop if you feel burning.
Patch test behind the ear or on the inner arm before the first use.
How often
Once a week is the most that most scalps need. Every two to four weeks is enough for many people. Dry or sensitive scalps may do best without it.
Signs you are overdoing it
- Tightness, soreness or stinging after washing.
- Redness.
- More flaking than before.
- A scalp that becomes oilier or itchier.
Stop for a few weeks and return to a gentle shampoo.
Simple alternatives
- Massage shampoo into the scalp for a full minute with your fingertips at every wash.
- Use a clarifying shampoo every few weeks. See Scalp Buildup: Causes and Cleansing Tips.
- Use an anti-dandruff shampoo if flakes are the problem. See Dandruff vs Dry Scalp: How to Tell the Difference.
A scalp massage without any product is also pleasant and safe. Scalp Massage: How to Do It and What to Expect explains how. For exfoliating the skin of the body, see How to Exfoliate Your Body: Methods and Precautions.
When to see a doctor
Thick, stuck-on scale, red patches, pain, bleeding or hair loss need a diagnosis, not a scrub.
Related on ArniSun
- Scalp Buildup: Causes and Cleansing Tips
- Sensitive Scalp Care: Tips for a Gentle Routine
- Dandruff vs Dry Scalp: How to Tell the Difference
- Scalp Massage: How to Do It and What to Expect
- How to Exfoliate Your Body: Methods and Precautions
Sources and further reading
Frequently asked questions
Is scalp exfoliation good for hair growth?
There is no good evidence that exfoliating the scalp makes hair grow faster or thicker. It can make the scalp feel cleaner, which is a fair reason to do it if your scalp tolerates it.
Can I use my face or body scrub on my scalp?
It is better not to. Face and body scrubs are hard to rinse out of hair and may contain particles that are too rough for the scalp.
Should I exfoliate before or after shampoo?
Most products are used before shampoo, so that the shampoo washes away the loosened flakes and residue. Follow the directions on your product.